Beiträge von Rottimann

    Öl und Fett lösen Gummi mit der Zeit auf. Besser Silikonfett (tatsächlich kein Fett, sondern ein Schmierstoff auf Silikonbasis) oder Silikonspray benutzen.

    Oh, äh, argh. Als Buße geht der nächste Grüntee auf mich. Aaaber "lebhaft" habe ich vor zwei Jahren ja schon mal geschrieben. Allerdings- beständig lebensbejahend zu fahren, lerne ich ja von dir. Leider muss ich zugeben, dass der Lernprozess noch nicht ganz abgeschlossen ist! 😂👍

    Info zum technischen Hintergrund der weiß markierten Referensschraube auf https://www.fz09.org/threads/t…body-sync-question.71394/ gefunden:

    "I found the following post from an FJR forum from back in 2018. While not an fz/mt, I think the general principals would be the same. As per the below, I wonder if the throttle body with the lowest vacuum should become the reference and turn the white screw to synch accordingly:


    From FJR Forum:

    ... the screw with the white dot was the one with the lowest vacuum when all four screws were initially closed (lightly seated) during their factory sync. That one was left fully seated and the others were opened slightly (which relives some vacuum) to match the low one. The idea was that they wanted to add the least possible amount of bypass air, so that the other circuits (ECU controlled cold and warm idle opening of the main butterflies) have the maximum possible range and effect.

    We did a survey of 3rd Gen bikes, and in every case the white painted screw was the one that was left fully closed by the factory. Recreating fully closed is pretty damn easy, if you ask me. There is no magic, or ECU requirements going on here.



    Minimizing the bypass air through these air screw passages became important in 3rd Gens when Fly by wire was introduced. With that change, the cold start high idle mechanism and the warm idle speed adjustment screw were eliminated. All idle speed (both cold and warm) is now a function of the ECU opening the main throttle plates more or less to achieve the required cold or warm idle speed. So minimizing leakage air around them means the throttle plates will be open more at warm idle and allow it to regulate properly."

    Hab gerade bei Yamaha Neuss Ventilshims gekauft. Im Internet kursieren Preise um 2,50€ pro Shim von alternativen Anbietern. Yamaha ruft über 18€ pro Shim auf! Im Tausch immer noch 5,xx€. Ich frage mich, ob die aus Platin sind, oder die Alternativen aus Dosenblech.